Grigliata - sliced grilled steak with rosemary and green peppercorns

I have had the opportunity to sample the cuisine of the Marche region of Italy.  Marche is situated on the Adriatic (east) coast north and east of Rome.  Although the prevailing cuisine was made up of many varied seafood dishes, there was a signature beef dish that I had at several different restaurants.

It featured grilled strip steak that was sliced, dressed with olive oil and herbs and spices, and then broiled to finish.  The fresh rosemary and green peppercorns create a piquant taste that you will not get at the Outback Steakhouse!

1 strip steak (New York, Kansas City, Loin, or whatever your local butcher calls it)

1 clove garlic, chopped fine

2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary, coarsely chopped

1 TBS green peppercorns (fresh or bottled but not dried)

1 TBS extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)

Warm the steak to room temperature.  Trim fat and gristle.  Grill or broil till cooked rare (several minutes on each side).  Remove to a cutting board, slice on a bias 1/8” thick. 

Arrange slices on an ovenproof platter.  Distribute garlic, rosemary, and green peppercorns evenly over steak slices.  Drizzle EVOO over the steak.

Place steak platter under a preheated broiler for 1-2 minutes until garlic is cooked and steak is medium rare.

Serve with green salad, whole crust bread, and dry red wine.

Serves two as an entrée course, four as an appetizer.

Recipe may easily be doubled.

Melanzane alla Parmigiana, a.k.a. Eggplant Parmesan

We Americans typically think that “parmesan” means “with lotsa cheese.” But in Italian cooking, it means in the style of Parma, a city in northern Italy between Bologna and Milan. Coincidentally, the city of Parma is famous for Parmesan cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano), a hard, granular cheese which is very tasty when grated or shaved into a variety of dishes. But Parma is also famous for many other dishes involving prosciutto, pork, mortadella, and many other ingredients – not just cheese.

Contrary to what its name suggests, this dish is Sicilian in origin and is found in various guises all over that island, southern Italy, and Sardinia. 

The first thing you should do is disabuse yourself of the notion that “parmesan” means breaded and fried - che orrore! There are no eggs nor breading involved in preparing proper Melanzane alla Parmigiana.

Think of it this way – if you have ever prepared a lasagna, imagine building one using no lasagna noodles but slices of fried eggplant instead. No meat, only eggplant, tomato sauce, and cheeses. But unbelievably scrumptious. 

Still, the mystery of the name, Melanzana alla Parmigiana, remains. The use of slices of eggplant reveals a clue as to the origin of the name. One likely theory is offered by Anna Pomar in her book  “La Cucina tradizionale siciliana”

“With its liberal use of aubergine [eggplants] and tomatoes, this is most likely an ancient Sicilian dish which, in many cookbooks is erroneously described as deriving its name from Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, one of the ingredients. However "parmigiana" is the Italianization of the Sicilian dialectal word "parmiciana", which refers to the slats of wood which compose the central part of a shutter and overlap in the same manner as the slices of aubergine in the dish.” 

Never mind. The name is not important. All we need do is prepare the dish and savor its sumptuous flavors.

This is not a 15 minute meal. Think, rather, of a Saturday afternoon. Buy the ingredients, fresh; then retire to your kitchen to compose. 

There are five major phases of this meal – but don’t be concerned. If you sip a little wine whilst performing these tasks, time will fly by. Enjoyably.

1. Slice the eggplant and draw out the excess moisture
2.  Prepare a tomato sauce
3. Fry the eggplant
4. Construct the finished dish
5. Bake until done

One final point. The recipe below will prepare a dinner portion for four to six depending on hunger. The recipe is easily doubled.

Ingredients:

2 large eggplants or 3 medium - 3-4 lbs in total

Salt for expressing moisture

Olive oil for preparing tomato sauce

28 oz can whole plum tomatoes

Pinch of turmeric

Red pepper flakes to taste (1/8 tsp. is safe)

Freshly ground black pepper

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 small red pepper (or 1/2 large), seeded and chopped

1 pinch baking soda, optional

2 cloves garlic, chopped

Olive oil for frying eggplant

16 oz. ricotta or fresh (soft) mozzarella, sliced thin

3-4 oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

Handful of basil leaves, roughly torn

1.     Slice the eggplant and draw out the excess moisture

·            Wash the eggplants

·            Slice the eggplants lengthwise approx. ¼” thick (do not peel)

·            Place a layer of eggplant slices on a platter – salt lightly.

·            Create another layer of slices at right angles and salt as above.

·            Continue this process until all slices are stacked and salted.

·            Place another platter upside down on top and weight down with several heavy cans of tomatoes or other weighty items.

·            Allow eggplant slices to rest for several hours – they will express a considerable amount of moisture.

2.       While waiting for eggplant slices to express moisture, prepare a tomato sauce

·            Place 3 TBS olive oil in a skillet and warm to medium heat.  Add turmeric, red pepper flakes, and freshly ground black pepper

·            Meanwhile, empty a 28 oz. can of whole plum tomatoes with juices into a bowl

·            Pluck and discard the stem-end of each tomato (to remove bitterness)

·            Crush every tomato thoroughly between your fingers (pretend that you’re back in kindergarten and really mush them)

·            Add 1 medium onion and fresh red pepper, chopped, to hot oil

·            Sauté until onion and pepper are softened and reduced, browned but not crisped

·            Pour tomatoes into skillet and heat to boiling, then reduce to simmer

·           Taste sauce - if acidic, add 1 pinch baking soda to remove acidity

·            Simmer until thickened and oil separates

·            Add 2 cloves garlic, chopped, and simmer for 2 additional minutes

3.       Fry the eggplant

·            In a large skillet, heat a tablespoon of olive oil to medium heat

·            Place several strips of eggplant in the skillet, as many as will fit without overlapping

·            Fry until softened, then flip and brown the other side

·            Cook until softened and browned, then remove fryed eggplant slices to a platter

·            Repeat until all slices are fried.  Add olive oil to skillet as needed

4.       Construct the finished dish

·            In a 12”x8” baking dish, start with a thin layer of sauce on the bottom

·            Place a layer of eggplant slices in the baking dish

·            Distribute a layer of thinly sliced soft cheese

·            Cover with a thin layer of tomato sauce

·            Repeat until all eggplant slices have been used.

·            Top with the remaining sauce, a generous layer of freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.

·            Place in the oven and bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. Remove from oven and top with torn basil leaves. 


Serve with a yummy Italian wine, slices of a hard crust bread, and a nice green side salad.

Buon appetito!  
  
Preparation tips

Thickness of slices

If the eggplants slices aren't regular, i.e., some too thin and some too thick, or even a single slice that has thin and thick areas, it will be difficult to fry them to a regular consistency. The eggplant slices must be fried to a soft, silky doneness to make the dish work.  

One approach to handle thick slices is to press down on the slice with a stiff pancake turner as it is frying. This forces liquid out of the thick area of the slice and makes it cook more quickly and thoroughly.

Another approach is to ensure that all of the slices are regular. This can be most easily accomplished by using a slicing mandolin set to 1/4". 

Amount of salt

The slices of eggplant are salted, stacked, and set aside to express moisture. If you have used little salt (lightly salted), then the salt need not be removed.  But if you have heavily salted the slices and don't remove it, the dish will be too salty. You can remove excess salt by wiping each slice with a damp paper towel or a quick rinse under the faucet. (No, rinsing won't add moisture to the eggplant; the water will run right off).

One-pot veggies and pasta with pesto

This one came to me after having learned several recipes from various family members, both domestic and Italian.  We were looking for something relatively quick but healthy, and building on what we knew, this was the result.

The central idea is to cook whole garlic, string beans, potatoes, pasta, and thin-sliced broccoli in the same pot, then combine with pesto and olive oil and top with a little fresh ground parmigiano reggiano cheese.  

All cooked in the same pot, this is an extremely simple meal to prepare (and to clean up after).  The key is to prepare the ingredients so that they cook to desired doneness in succession.

One guarantee... this is simple!

 Ingredients:

1 head garlic, peeled, large cloves halved

1 pound string beans, snapped and halved

1 large potato, peeled and cubed

1/2 pound spaghetti, whole wheat or plain, broken in half

1 broccoli crown, florets separated and stem thinly sliced

3-4 Tbs. pesto

A little extra olive oil if needed

Salt and pepper to taste

Parmigiano reggiano cheese for topping

Method:

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil.  Add the garlic cloves.  Return to boil.

After 5 minutes, add string beans.  Cook for 5 minutes.

Add potatoes and cook for another several minutes.

Break spaghetti in half, add to pot, and return to boil.  

After 3 minutes, add broccoli.

Cook another 5-8 minutes until all ingredients are tender to the tooth.

Drain, return to pan, and mix well with pesto.  If a bit dry, add some extra virgin olive oil until desired consistency is obtained.

Serve topped with freshly grated parmigiano reggiano and salt and pepper to taste.

Buon appetito!  

Whole-wheat pasta dinner salad

Fresh vegetables and whole grains, with the nutrients and fiber that they provide, are rightfully promoted as central to a healthful diet.  Combine whole wheat pasta with baby spinach and you’ve got a real winner.

This quick, easy, dinner salad is delicious, nutritious, and simple to prepare.   No excuses!

The recipe provides a large, wholesome dinner for four.  It may easily be halved.

Ingredients, salad:

¾ pound whole wheat pasta – rotini, fusilli,  or other small shapes

½ cup coarsely chopped walnuts

6 oz. crumbled feta cheese

¼ large red onion, chopped (approx. ½ cup)

½ sweet red pepper, chopped

2 plum tomatoes, chopped

6 oz. package fresh baby spinach, rinsed and spun dry

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Ingredients, dressing:

3 Tbs. EVOO

3 Tbs. red wine vinegar

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

Method:

Cook the pasta according to package directions  Drain, rinse under cold water, place in a large bowl with other salad ingredients.

Prepare dressing, whisk ingredients until well mixed, pour over salad and toss thoroughly.

This salad serves four hungry adults – may easily be halved.

Buon appetito!