Melanzane alla Parmigiana, a.k.a. Eggplant Parmesan

We Americans typically think that “parmesan” means “with lotsa cheese.” But in Italian cooking, it means in the style of Parma, a city in northern Italy between Bologna and Milan. Coincidentally, the city of Parma is famous for Parmesan cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano), a hard, granular cheese which is very tasty when grated or shaved into a variety of dishes. But Parma is also famous for many other dishes involving prosciutto, pork, mortadella, and many other ingredients – not just cheese.

Contrary to what its name suggests, this dish is Sicilian in origin and is found in various guises all over that island, southern Italy, and Sardinia. 

The first thing you should do is disabuse yourself of the notion that “parmesan” means breaded and fried - che orrore! There are no eggs nor breading involved in preparing proper Melanzane alla Parmigiana.

Think of it this way – if you have ever prepared a lasagna, imagine building one using no lasagna noodles but slices of fried eggplant instead. No meat, only eggplant, tomato sauce, and cheeses. But unbelievably scrumptious. 

Still, the mystery of the name, Melanzana alla Parmigiana, remains. The use of slices of eggplant reveals a clue as to the origin of the name. One likely theory is offered by Anna Pomar in her book  “La Cucina tradizionale siciliana”

“With its liberal use of aubergine [eggplants] and tomatoes, this is most likely an ancient Sicilian dish which, in many cookbooks is erroneously described as deriving its name from Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, one of the ingredients. However "parmigiana" is the Italianization of the Sicilian dialectal word "parmiciana", which refers to the slats of wood which compose the central part of a shutter and overlap in the same manner as the slices of aubergine in the dish.” 

Never mind. The name is not important. All we need do is prepare the dish and savor its sumptuous flavors.

This is not a 15 minute meal. Think, rather, of a Saturday afternoon. Buy the ingredients, fresh; then retire to your kitchen to compose. 

There are five major phases of this meal – but don’t be concerned. If you sip a little wine whilst performing these tasks, time will fly by. Enjoyably.

1. Slice the eggplant and draw out the excess moisture
2.  Prepare a tomato sauce
3. Fry the eggplant
4. Construct the finished dish
5. Bake until done

One final point. The recipe below will prepare a dinner portion for four to six depending on hunger. The recipe is easily doubled.

Ingredients:

2 large eggplants or 3 medium - 3-4 lbs in total

Salt for expressing moisture

Olive oil for preparing tomato sauce

28 oz can whole plum tomatoes

Pinch of turmeric

Red pepper flakes to taste (1/8 tsp. is safe)

Freshly ground black pepper

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 small red pepper (or 1/2 large), seeded and chopped

1 pinch baking soda, optional

2 cloves garlic, chopped

Olive oil for frying eggplant

16 oz. ricotta or fresh (soft) mozzarella, sliced thin

3-4 oz Parmesan cheese, freshly grated

Handful of basil leaves, roughly torn

1.     Slice the eggplant and draw out the excess moisture

·            Wash the eggplants

·            Slice the eggplants lengthwise approx. ¼” thick (do not peel)

·            Place a layer of eggplant slices on a platter – salt lightly.

·            Create another layer of slices at right angles and salt as above.

·            Continue this process until all slices are stacked and salted.

·            Place another platter upside down on top and weight down with several heavy cans of tomatoes or other weighty items.

·            Allow eggplant slices to rest for several hours – they will express a considerable amount of moisture.

2.       While waiting for eggplant slices to express moisture, prepare a tomato sauce

·            Place 3 TBS olive oil in a skillet and warm to medium heat.  Add turmeric, red pepper flakes, and freshly ground black pepper

·            Meanwhile, empty a 28 oz. can of whole plum tomatoes with juices into a bowl

·            Pluck and discard the stem-end of each tomato (to remove bitterness)

·            Crush every tomato thoroughly between your fingers (pretend that you’re back in kindergarten and really mush them)

·            Add 1 medium onion and fresh red pepper, chopped, to hot oil

·            Sauté until onion and pepper are softened and reduced, browned but not crisped

·            Pour tomatoes into skillet and heat to boiling, then reduce to simmer

·           Taste sauce - if acidic, add 1 pinch baking soda to remove acidity

·            Simmer until thickened and oil separates

·            Add 2 cloves garlic, chopped, and simmer for 2 additional minutes

3.       Fry the eggplant

·            In a large skillet, heat a tablespoon of olive oil to medium heat

·            Place several strips of eggplant in the skillet, as many as will fit without overlapping

·            Fry until softened, then flip and brown the other side

·            Cook until softened and browned, then remove fryed eggplant slices to a platter

·            Repeat until all slices are fried.  Add olive oil to skillet as needed

4.       Construct the finished dish

·            In a 12”x8” baking dish, start with a thin layer of sauce on the bottom

·            Place a layer of eggplant slices in the baking dish

·            Distribute a layer of thinly sliced soft cheese

·            Cover with a thin layer of tomato sauce

·            Repeat until all eggplant slices have been used.

·            Top with the remaining sauce, a generous layer of freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese.

·            Place in the oven and bake at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. Remove from oven and top with torn basil leaves. 


Serve with a yummy Italian wine, slices of a hard crust bread, and a nice green side salad.

Buon appetito!  
  
Preparation tips

Thickness of slices

If the eggplants slices aren't regular, i.e., some too thin and some too thick, or even a single slice that has thin and thick areas, it will be difficult to fry them to a regular consistency. The eggplant slices must be fried to a soft, silky doneness to make the dish work.  

One approach to handle thick slices is to press down on the slice with a stiff pancake turner as it is frying. This forces liquid out of the thick area of the slice and makes it cook more quickly and thoroughly.

Another approach is to ensure that all of the slices are regular. This can be most easily accomplished by using a slicing mandolin set to 1/4". 

Amount of salt

The slices of eggplant are salted, stacked, and set aside to express moisture. If you have used little salt (lightly salted), then the salt need not be removed.  But if you have heavily salted the slices and don't remove it, the dish will be too salty. You can remove excess salt by wiping each slice with a damp paper towel or a quick rinse under the faucet. (No, rinsing won't add moisture to the eggplant; the water will run right off).

One-pot veggies and pasta with pesto

This one came to me after having learned several recipes from various family members, both domestic and Italian.  We were looking for something relatively quick but healthy, and building on what we knew, this was the result.

The central idea is to cook whole garlic, string beans, potatoes, pasta, and thin-sliced broccoli in the same pot, then combine with pesto and olive oil and top with a little fresh ground parmigiano reggiano cheese.  

All cooked in the same pot, this is an extremely simple meal to prepare (and to clean up after).  The key is to prepare the ingredients so that they cook to desired doneness in succession.

One guarantee... this is simple!

 Ingredients:

1 head garlic, peeled, large cloves halved

1 pound string beans, snapped and halved

1 large potato, peeled and cubed

1/2 pound spaghetti, whole wheat or plain, broken in half

1 broccoli crown, florets separated and stem thinly sliced

3-4 Tbs. pesto

A little extra olive oil if needed

Salt and pepper to taste

Parmigiano reggiano cheese for topping

Method:

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil.  Add the garlic cloves.  Return to boil.

After 5 minutes, add string beans.  Cook for 5 minutes.

Add potatoes and cook for another several minutes.

Break spaghetti in half, add to pot, and return to boil.  

After 3 minutes, add broccoli.

Cook another 5-8 minutes until all ingredients are tender to the tooth.

Drain, return to pan, and mix well with pesto.  If a bit dry, add some extra virgin olive oil until desired consistency is obtained.

Serve topped with freshly grated parmigiano reggiano and salt and pepper to taste.

Buon appetito!  

Whole-wheat pasta dinner salad

Fresh vegetables and whole grains, with the nutrients and fiber that they provide, are rightfully promoted as central to a healthful diet.  Combine whole wheat pasta with baby spinach and you’ve got a real winner.

This quick, easy, dinner salad is delicious, nutritious, and simple to prepare.   No excuses!

The recipe provides a large, wholesome dinner for four.  It may easily be halved.

Ingredients, salad:

¾ pound whole wheat pasta – rotini, fusilli,  or other small shapes

½ cup coarsely chopped walnuts

6 oz. crumbled feta cheese

¼ large red onion, chopped (approx. ½ cup)

½ sweet red pepper, chopped

2 plum tomatoes, chopped

6 oz. package fresh baby spinach, rinsed and spun dry

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Ingredients, dressing:

3 Tbs. EVOO

3 Tbs. red wine vinegar

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

Method:

Cook the pasta according to package directions  Drain, rinse under cold water, place in a large bowl with other salad ingredients.

Prepare dressing, whisk ingredients until well mixed, pour over salad and toss thoroughly.

This salad serves four hungry adults – may easily be halved.

Buon appetito! 

Easy Fried Rice

We often think that haute cuisine (literally, high food) is the way to go.  But such recipes can be complicated, time consuming, and expensive.  What about those times when we just want a simple, quick, and inexpensive meal?  That would be basse cuisine (low food), as the peasants would cook.  Don’t underestimate the wisdom of peasant cooking.  They know how to get maximum nutrition from whatever ingredients happen to be available.

Fried rice is not a recipe but a notion.  It is a way to utilize whatever leftovers may be in your fridge.  This is just one simple example.  Try to grasp the concept and experiment widely. It is extremely important to understand that you can vary ingredients, proportions, and spices extensively to create a broad range of nutritious and tasty dishes.

One recent night, after a late meeting, I stopped on the way home and grabbed some take-out Chinese – stir-fried broccoli and rice.  After eating a bit of both, it went into the fridge. Several days later, interested in a hearty breakfast, I concocted the following. 

Ingredients

2 Tbs. olive oil
Pinch turmeric
Hot red pepper flakes to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
1-2 cups cooked rice
1 cup chopped, cooked broccoli
2 eggs

Method

In a large skillet, heat the oil with the spices.  Add the onion and sauté until reduced.  Add garlic for a moment or two but do not brown.

Place rice in skillet, stir and smash until incorporated into the sofrito, then cover and cook a few moments until moisturized.
 

Uncover, add broccoli, stir well, and heat through.

Break two eggs into the skillet, stir and mix well, and cook until just done, eggs still moist (do not overcook the eggs).

Serve with a little soy sauce and eat with chopsticks.

Yum.

Sicilian Peppery Tomato Soup with Chickpeas

For those who like a thick, satisfying soup, here’s a very easy one.  It has no meat and yet is very hearty and satisfying.  Garbanzo beans (chick peas) are a good source of fiber and protein.  The tomatoes add a healthy dose of lycopene, anti-oxidants, and just plain taste good.

The rosemary adds a pungent flair redolent of sun-drenched Sicily.

The soup is intended to be very thick. Spend some time and cook it down – you will be rewarded by a mouth-satisfying, belly-filling meal.

Intended to be peppery, you can cut back on the hot red pepper flakes if you prefer milder fare.


Enjoy! 


Sicilian Peppery Chickpea Soup with Tomatoes
(Minestra di Ceci e Pomodoro alla Siciliana)


Ingredients
¼ cup olive oil (EVOO)
¼ tsp. red pepper flakes
Pinch of turmeric
Freshly ground black red pepper to taste
1 medium onion chopped
1 medium red pepper, seeded and chopped
3 large cloves garlic, chopped
28 oz can chef’s cut (diced) tomatoes with liquid
1/2 tsp fresh finely chopped rosemary or 1/4 tsp dried crushed
Pinch of baking soda
2 cans 15.5 oz chickpeas, drained
2 cups water
Salt to taste
Freshly grated parmigiano reggiano


Method

In a large soup pot, heat oil to medium-low, add turmeric, red pepper flakes, and black pepper. Stir and heat, then add onions, red pepper, and sauté, stirring frequently.  Cook onion-pepper mixture until reduced, 5-8 minutes.

Add garlic, cook and stir for an additional minute.

Add tomatoes with their liquid.  Cook tomato-onion mixture uncovered, stirring frequently, until a good part of the liquid evaporates and mixture thickens (about 10-15 minutes). Add the baking soda and stir well (this reduces acidity).

Add the chopped rosemary and stir well.

Note:  This is a very thick soup. Cook onions-peppers and then tomatoes even longer than you’d normally think.  The key to this soup is to thicken and reduce the base.  You are cooking over medium heat, hence need to stir frequently to avoid sticking or scorching. A screen over the pot will eliminate splatter.

Pour in the chickpeas and water. Bring to boil, stirring.  Reduce to slow, steady, simmer, cover, and cook 20 minutes

Add salt and pepper to taste. Uncover and simmer to thicken if necessary.

Top each bowl with a little fresh grated Parmesan cheese and serve with garlic toast and a side of greens or salad. 

Buon appetito!

Pasta in Tomatoey Broccoli Sauce

Broccoli sauce prior to mashing

Broccoli is the vegetable that everyone loves to hate.  When cooked badly, it has both an unpleasant texture and taste.  No wonder former President George H. W. Bush doesn’t like the stuff.  But broccoli has a lot to recommend it.  A member of the cabbage family, it is packed with nutrients, being high in vitamin C, dietary fiber, and anti-cancer properties.  And much more importantly, when properly prepared, it can be quite tasty!

There are many pasta and broccoli recipes, but this one is different and results in a very savory dish of pasta in a thick, tomatoey, broccoli sauce.  The spices are a suggestion only – feel free to substitute your own favorites.

First we’re going to cook the broccoli, and then the pasta, in the same water. That way the vegetable nutrients aren’t  completely tossed down the drain.  In addition, a cup of this water will be added to the sauce.

The broccoli, after cooking in the pasta pot, will be transferred to a deep skillet and cooked in olive oil, thoroughly mashed down, then combined with tomato paste and the cup of reserved water to form a thick sauce.

Finally, the pasta is cooked in the pasta pot (same water as the broccoli) until not quite done, drained through a colander, then combined in the broccoli sauce and cooked to completion. 

Ingredients

1 pound broccoli, cut up (florets cut and stems thinly sliced)

4 tbs. EVOO

Pinch of turmeric

¼ tsp. red hot pepper flakes

Fresh grated black pepper to taste

1 cup of water (reserved from pot)

1 can 6 oz. tomato paste

3 cloves garlic thinly sliced

3/4 pounds (about 3/4 box) small pasta (ziti, penne, etc.)

Fresh grated cheese (Parmigiano Reggiano preferred)

Method

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Add broccoli and cook 10-15 minutes until all parts are tender (particularly the stem chunks). 

Meanwhile, heat oil in a large, deep skillet (or Dutch oven).  Add spices (turmeric, hot pepper flakes, black pepper).

When broccoli is tender, remove pot from heat, then use a slotted spoon or strainer to move the broccoli to the skillet.  Reserve a cup of the broccoli water.

Cook the broccoli in the skillet over medium-high heat, stirring and mashing until hot and well cooked into a thick sauce.  Add the can of tomato paste and cup of reserved water – mix and stir well.  Stir in garlic slices a few moments before adding the pasta. Add water as necessary if sauce is too thick.

Meanwhile, bring the vegetable water back to a boil and cook the pasta until al dente (not quite done).  Drain pasta and add it to the broccoli sauce.  Stir well to coat, then cover and continue cooking until pasta is done.

Salt to taste.

Serve with a topping of fresh grated hard cheese and a nice glass of Chianti.  Enjoy!

SHORTCUT - you may replace the tomato paste and cup of water with 2 cups of prepared tomato sauce.  My favorite is Classico Traditional Tomato & Basil.

Whole wheat ziti in tomatoey broccoli sauce.

Sicilian frutti di mare

Sicilians are blessed with intense sunshine, rich soil, blue skies, and the limitless Mediterranean.  It’s not a surprise, then, that tomatoes, herbs, pasta, and sea foods are often combined into a delicious yet affordable feast.  Tomatoes, garlic, hot red peppers, and parsley are endemic to every backyard garden.  The central highlands ripple with waves of windblown, durum  wheat, resulting in fresh pasta treasured for its hearty flavor and nutrition.   And the fishing ports of Sicily, representing one quarter of the entire Italian fleet, bring in daily bounties of shrimp, sardines, anchovies, mollusks, tuna, squid, and many other varieties of sea fish.  It is a veritable seafood heaven.

This recipe is fairly straightforward using commonly available ingredients.  While not completely faithful to the indigenous Sicilian version, it is damned close.  Certainly, experiment with the bounty of any fresh seafood that is available in your area. 

I prefer using whole canned plum tomatoes (especially in winter, better than greenhouse “fresh”).  But if you’re in a big hurry, use chef’s cut or crushed tomatoes and save some preparation time.

This recipe is designed to serve two, with second helpings, and leftovers, and may be easily doubled. 

Date warning - note that the garlic is added near the end to boost the fresh garlic taste. 

Ingredients

3-4 Tbs. EVOO

¼ tsp. hot red pepper flakes (or more, or less, to taste)

Fresh ground black pepper

Pinch ground turmeric

4 anchovy strips, chopped fine

½ sweet red pepper, seeded, chopped

½ yellow onion, chopped

28oz. can whole plum tomatoes with juice

12 littleneck clams, shells soaked,  scrubbed, and rinsed several times

12 bay scallops, rinsed

12 medium shrimp, peeled and rinsed

10 oz. whole wheat pasta (spaghetti or linguine to your preference)

4 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped fine

3-4 Tbs. fresh Italian parsley, rinsed and chopped
Freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

Preparation

Heat the olive oil to medium in a large, deep skillet or Dutch oven.  Add the hot red pepper flakes, black pepper, turmeric, and anchovies, then stir in onions and sweet red peppers and sauté until reduced and browned.  Continue to stir, blending in the anchovies.  Do not burn the onions. Reduce the heat a bit if necessary.

In the meantime, pour the tomatoes and their juices into a large bowl.  With freshly washed hands and no jewelry, reach into the bowl and eviscerate the stem end of each tomato, removing the bitter stem and any residual skin.  When all tomatoes have been plucked, crush them thoroughly between your fingers, then add tomatoes and their juices to the skillet.  Play like it’s kindergarten.

Readjust heat to medium and cook this mixture down, stirring frequently.  You may want to place a screen atop the pot to keep splatters to a minimum.  A cover placed askew to allow air circulation but catch splatters also works.

In a separate large pot, bring salted pasta water to a rapid boil.  Midway, add the scrubbed clams to the sauce and cover -- they may need to cook up to 20 minutes to fully open.  (Note - you are adding the clams to the sauce, not the pasta water.  This is a timing direction).

Add pasta to the boiling water and cook just short of package directions (about 7 minutes).  It will be finished cooking in the sauce.

With 6 minutes to go, add the scallops and chopped garlic to the sauce, stir well, and cover.  Then, with 3 minutes to go, add the shrimp, stir, and cover.

When pasta is done al dente, reserve ½ cup of pasta water and drain the pasta through a colander.  Keep an eye on the sauce, make sure that the clams have opened and that the shrimp turned pink.  If not, let them cook, covered, several more minutes until they have opened.  Remove and discard any clams that do not open.

Add the drained pasta and ½ cup pasta water to the sauce, toss well, top with fresh chopped parsley, and serve immediately topped with a few grinds of Parmigiano Reggiano.

A robust red wine such as the Sicilian classic, Nero D’Avola, is wonderful with this dish.  Fresh, hot, peasant bread and a simple green salad finish off the perfect meal.

Buon appetitio!